Medvídek Theodor
THIS IS AN ORIGINAL DESIGN BY LILLELIIS. YOU ARE ALLOWED TO SELL THE FINISHED PRODUCT HANDMADE BY YOU IF THE ITEM DESCRIPTION STATES IT`S BASED ON LILLELIIS PATTERN (PATTERN BY MARI-LIIS LILLE, WWW.LILLELIIS.COM). - - - - - - - - - - - YOU MAY NOT SELL THE PATTERN. IT IS ALSO PROHIBITED TO ALTER THE INSTRUCTIONS, MAKE TRANSLATIONS AND DISTRIBUTE IT ON PAPER OR ELECTRONICALLY. With this pattern you can create two different versions of the teddy bear: with the fabric patches on his ears and soles or with the contrasting colored ears and soles. The instructions include a detail guide for making the version using the fabric. On the last page of the instructions you`ll find an explanation of the second version. Note that there are small differences in the supplies needed for either of the versions. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 2 Finished size - about 37 cm (14.5 inches) if using similar yarn. Skill level: advanced Supplies 1. Yarn – the example is crocheted using two different yarns: Drops Big Merino (100% merino wool; 50g/75m) Color A – beige (3 skeins) Color B – white (only a small amount for the muzzle) Color E – brown (needed only for the version without the fabric) Drops Paris (100% cotton; 50g/75m) – 1 skein of each Color C – green Color D – red (only a small amount for the scarf) 2. Crochet hook 3.5 mm (or in accordance with the yarn you use) 3. Stitch marker 4. Polyester fiberfill 5. Safety eyes (Ø 12 mm) 6. Piece of felt and some thread for the nose 7. Darning and embroidery needles 8. Cotton fabric and thread for sewing on the fabric pieces (needed only for the version with the fabric patches) About the yarn In this pattern I´ve mixed two yarns with different consistence (you will find all the details in the list of supplies). They are with the same thickness, however they appear to be different. On the photo on the left you will see the yarns in their normal appearance, the beige strand (merino wool) looking thicker than the green one (cotton). On the photo on the right they are tightened. You may see that when they are stretched there is almost no difference between the thickness. You may want to keep this in mind if you need to replace the yarns. Abbreviations sl st - slip stitch ch - chain sc - single crochet dc - double crochet st(s) - stitch(es) rep - repeat Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 3 About the pattern Work in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless otherwise instructed. It would be wise to use a stitch marker and place it in the first stitch of the round to mark the beginning of it. Move the marker up to the first stitch of the next round after finishing the previous one. If you need to change color, do it always at the end of the previous round. Start the last stitch of the round with the current color in use. Change the new color right before you draw through all loops on the hook to complete the last stitch. You can easily sew the toy together when leaving each piece a long yarn tail. Stitch explanation Decrease (sc2tog) - Insert hook into st and draw up a loop. Insert hook into next st and draw up a loop. Yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook. hdc2tog – yarn over, (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop) 2 times. Yarn over and draw through all four loops on hook. hdc3tog – yarn over, (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop) 3 times. Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook. Comments In this pattern every detail starts with a magic ring. If you do not want to use that, you can easily start by using the following: Chain 2. Work 6 sc in first ch. Continue to round 2. PATTERN HEAD Crocheted from top to bottom. 1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring. 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30] 6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36] 7: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42] 8: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [48] 9: (Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [54] 10-23: Sc in each st around Now it is time to fasten the safety eyes. Find rows 12 and 13. Insert the first eye between them, then count 8 holes to the left and insert the second eye in the next hole. Close the washers from the inside of the piece. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 4 24: (Sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [48] 25: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [42] 26: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [36] Fill about a half of the head with fiberfill. Add stuffing as the work progresses and make sure it`s stuffed quite heavily. 27: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [30] 28: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [24] Leave only a short yarn tail and cut the yarn. EAR (make 2) 1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring. 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 3 times [21] 5-7: Sc in each st around Leave a long yarn tail and cut the yarn. Take the fabric and cut out the patches following the shape of the ears. Sew the pieces onto the Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 5 ears. Find a proper place for the ears and attach them to the head. MUZZLE 1: Color B. Start 6 sc in a magic ring. 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30] 6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36] 7-8: Sc in each st around Leave a long yarn tail and sew the muzzle onto the proper place. Add stuffing between the head and the muzzle before closing the seam. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 6 Cut out a piece of felt for the nose. Start with cutting out a rectangle with approximately proportional measurements, then round the edges and give it the final shape. The approximate dimensions of my piece are 5 x 3.5 cm. NB! Your piece may need to be bigger or smaller. The dimensions will depend on your yarn, hook size, and stitch tension. Attach the nose with some pins and sew it in it`s proper place. Also stitch the mouth. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 7 BODY Crocheted from the bottom up. 1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring. 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 5: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [30] 6: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [36] 7: (Sc in each of next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [42] 8: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [48] 9: (Sc in each of next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [54] 10-13: Sc in each st around 14: (Sc in each of next 7 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [48] 15-16: Sc in each st around 17: (Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [42] 18-19: Sc in each st around 20: (Sc in each of next 12 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [39] 21-22: Sc in each st around 23: (Sc in each of next 11 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [36] 24-25: Sc in each st around Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 8 Fill about a half of the body with fiberfill. Add stuffing as the work progresses and make sure it`s stuffed quite heavily. 26: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [30] 27: (Sc in each of next 3 sts, sc2tog) rep 6 times [24] 28-31: Sc in each st around Leave a long yarn tail for sewing and attach the head to the body. LEG (make 2) The sole of the leg is not crocheted in continuous rounds. Follow the precise instructions below. 1: Color A. Ch 4. 2 sc in the second st from hook, sc in the next st, 6 sc in the last st. Continue work on the other side of the chain. Sc in the next st. Sc in the first st of the row. Sl st in the first sc. [11] 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in the same st, sc in each of next 3 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 2 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 3 sts, sc in the sl st of the previous row. Sl st in the first sc. [17] Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 9 3: Ch 1. 2 sc in the same st, sc in each of next 5 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 4 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 5 sts, sc in the sl st of the previous row. Sl st in the first sc. [23] 4: Ch 1. 2 sc in the same st, sc in each of next 7 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 6 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, sc in the sl st of the previous row. Sl st in the first sc. [29] Now using the sole of the foot as a stencil, cut out the patches for the legs. First attach the sole with pins to the fabric. Then, following the shape of the sole, cut out the piece. Placing the first piece onto the fabric right sides facing together, cut out another patch for the second leg. Leave the patches aside. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 10 5: Ch 1. Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 7 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 8 sts, 3 sc in the next st, sc in each of next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st, sc in the sl st of the previous row. [36] Important! Do not join this row as the work will continue in the rounds! Also do not forget to mark the first stitch of the next round. 6: Working in the back loops only, sc in each of next 10 sts, hdc in each of next 16 sts, sc in each of next 10 sts. [36] Now using the cotton thread sew the fabric patch onto the leg. NB! Do not cut the yarn as the leg is not finished yet! Make sure you attach the piece inside the sole outline (the first stitches of row 6). 7: Sc in each of next 9 sts, hdc in each of next 2 sts, hdc3tog, hdc in each of next 8 sts, hdc3tog, hdc in each of next 2 sts, sc in each of next 9 sts. [32] 8: Sc in each of next 9 sts, (hdc, hdc2tog) rep 2 times, hdc in each of next 2 sts, (hdc2tog, hdc) rep 2 times, sc in each of next 9 sts. [28] hdc3tog – yarn over, (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop) 3 times. Yarn over and draw through all 5 loops on hook. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 11 9: Sc in each of next 8 sts, (sc2tog) rep 6 times, sc in each of next 8 sts. [22] 10: Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in the next st, (sc2tog) rep 2 times, sc in the next st, sc2tog, sc in each of next 6 sts. [18] Start filling the leg and add stuffing as the work progresses. 11: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [15] 12-36 (25 rounds): Sc in each st around hdc2tog – yarn over, (insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop) 2 times. Yarn over and draw through all four loops on hook. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 12 37: (Sc in the next st, sc2tog) rep 5 times [10] Leave a long yarn tail for sewing and cut the yarn. Sew the legs to the body. If you want your teddy to sit properly, you should attach the legs more to the front. ARM (make 2) 1: Color A. Start 6 sc in a magic ring. 2: Work 2 sc in each st around [12] 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [18] 4: (Sc in each of next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep 6 times [24] 5-6: Sc in each st around 7: (Sc in each of next 10 sts, sc2tog) rep 2 times [22] 8: (Sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog) rep 2 times [20] 9: (Sc in each of next 8 sts, sc2tog) rep 2 times [18] 10: (Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog) rep 3 times [15] 11: Sc in each st around Start filling the arm. Add stuffing as the work progresses. 12: Sc in each of next 13 sts, sc2tog [14] 13: Sc in each st around 14: Sc in each of next 6 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of next 6 sts [13] 15: Sc in each st around 16: Sc in each of next 11 sts, sc2tog [12] 17-19: Sc in each st around 20: Sc in each of next 5 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of next 5 sts [11] 21-23: Sc in each st around Hereafter fill the arm slightly softer. 24: Sc in each of next 9 sts, sc2tog [10] 25-27: Sc in each st around Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 13 28: Sc in each of next 4 sts, sc2tog, sc in each of next 4 sts [9] 29: Sc in each st around Leave a long yarn tail for sewing. Place the arms between 4th and 5th round on the body counted from the top (it`s the place where the neck smoothly becomes the body). PANTS Color C. Quite loosly ch 48. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 14 Make it a round by starting the next sc in the first chain stitch you made. Make sure you do not twist the chain. Do not forget to mark the first stitch with the stitch marker. 1-12: Sc in each stitch around [48] The first round completed Going on the second round Without cutting the yarn continue with the legs. Split the piece in two as we will work them separately. Cut a short yarn strap and bring it through the 24th and 48th stitch of the round you just finished. Tie the stitches together with a knot. This is the space between the two legs. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 15 Continue with the first leg. 13: Sc in each of next 23 sts (the rest of the stitches are left out of the work at the moment). Make it a round by starting the next stitch in the first stitch of the previous round. 14-16: Sc in each st around [23]. Sl st in the next 2 sts. Leave a short yarn tail. Make the second leg for the trousers. Join the yarn right next to the red strap between the two legs. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 16 Repeat round 13-16 for making the second leg. Remove the yarn strap and close the small hole between the legs. Make an edging and suspenders. Go back to the middle of the trousers and start at the back where you connected the chain into a round. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 17 Hold the pants right side up so that you can see the yarn tail of the starting chain. Attach the yarn into the stitch on the left of it. Ch 2. Starting with the same stitch dc in each stitch around. Sl st in the first dc. [48] Before we continue with the suspenders sew the buttons on the front side of the trousers. Do not cut the yarn though! Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 18 For making the first strap ch 40. Leave a hole for the button by skipping 15 sts. Work sl sts in the next 25 ch sts. Sl st in each of next 5 dc at the edge of the trousers. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 19 Now it`s time to try the pants on the teddy bear to make sure the strap is with the right length. If it`s too short then make the chain longer. If it`s too long then shorter the chain. Note that the suspenders should be crossed at the back. Make the second strap following the instructions of the first one. Continue with sl sts along the edge of the trousers till the end of the row. Leave a short yarn tail and cut the yarn. With the help of the darning neelde insert the yarn in the next st and tie a knot on the inside of the work. Weave in all yarn ends. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 20 SCARF 1: Color D. Ch 5. Starting from the second stitch from hook sc in each of next 4 sts. [4] 2-29 (28 rounds): Turn, ch 1. Working in the back loops only, sc in each of the 4 sts. 30: Turn, ch 1. Sc in the first st, ch 2. Skip 2 sts and sc in the last st. 31: Turn, ch 1. Continue working in the back loops only! Sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 2 ch sts, sc in the last st [4] 32-35: Turn, ch 1. Sc in each of the 4 sts. Copyright © lilleliis 2015. Pattern by Mari-Liis Lille 21 Leave a short yarn tail and weave in ends. Tie the scarf around the teddies neck by bringing the long end through the hole. TEDDY BEAR WITH CONTRASTING COLORED EARS AND FEET For making the teddy bear with contrasting colored ears and feet (without the fabric on his ears and soles) you`ll need to follow the same instructions with a few small adaptations. 1. Use color E for making the ears. Do not add the fabric. 2. Use color E for rounds 1 to 5 on the feet. On round 6 work through both loops. Do not add