Crete Island - Levka Ori (White Mountanis)

(CHANIA) - Therisso - Therisso-road - (a mitato) Kakoperato - (a plain) Plakoseli - the mountain branch pf E4 route - (a plain) Katsiveli - under Modaki (a peak) - the summit of Páchnes - (a saddle) Rousiés - Anopoli-road - (a place) Aganthopoi - (a gorge) Lagou - Anopoli - (a chapel) Agia Ekaterini - Livadiana-road - (a place) Marmara - the coastal branch of E4 - Agia Roumeli - (a gorge) Eligias - (a place) Fliskounias - (a cave) Kormokopou - Agios Ioannis - (a place) Sellouda - Anopoli - (a gorge) Ilingias - Sfakia - (CHANIA)

My second holiday in Crete at this year (Oct 2016) was much later than I usually go and I was curious to see if facilities in Agia Roumeli would be still open because they depend for business on the Gorge of Samária being open, or not. Such a later term could cause, due to bad weather, Samária could be closed, what would mean there aren't any people/customers who would spend their money in taverns and restaurants, thus, these all (taverns and restaurants and shops and accommodations) could be closed. Fortunately, the weather was so nice Samária was running and there was any lack of food or drink in Agia Roumeli.

I further developed (for me) the way between the end of the Therisso road (near to a mitato of Kakoperato) and the plain of Plakoseli (on the E4 route under a range of Melindanou massif), repeated the track from Katsiveli to Páchnes via under western flanks of Modaki, visited (for the first time) the chapel of Agia Ekaterini above Anopoli (and above coastal tourist destination of Loutro), and also repeated the way downward the Eligias gorge as far as the place of Fliskounias to reach (by a very low marked and challenging path) the cave of Kormokopou. Remaining tracks (Agios Ioannis to Sellouda, and Sellouda to Anopoli and Ilingias gorge) were such common ones which I passed many times in the past through.

1^st day – 04/10 – Departures (from Prague and then from Athens) and arrivals (to Athens and to Chania) were OK (Aegean Airlines), in Chania, I caught last but one bus to the city and then I could have my first can of Mythos-beer sitting on a bench in the park of Square of 1866. I indeed could, but did have it (I consider it to be the best in Crete) because it wasn’t disposal. So, I had to settle for another local beer Alfa. And then hurry up to the beach (Nea Chóra) to spend my first Cretan night here. It was warm and not very windy and I could look forward to taking a bath and to swim next day (to tell the truth – not next day but this day because the midnight was a rather long time away).

2^nd day – 05/10 – The morning was nice – sunny and warm and I really took my first bath immediately after I got up. Amazing!! Because my bus (toward Therisso) should leave after 2 o’clock p.m. (exactly at 1415) I didn’t have to hurry up. About noon I ate my first gyros, bought a (necessary) cartridge for my gas stove, had a Greek coffee and some pastries in the “Sweet Corner” (a cafeteria + snack bar) in the bus station, and about 1400 I started looking for my bus. How surprising was that bus – it was a mini-bus only, just for 6 passengers!! I have never gone by such a small bus here!! And in addition to it – I was just alone inside when the bus left!! Only 3 passengers came up on the way – schoolchildren. In Therisso, I took the way along the bitumen road upward as far as its fork, here to the left down and after about two or three km there was the next fork. The left branch runs down and it is for the Drakona village whereas the right one was for me ­– heading for mountains. Its bitumen surface changed for a couple of hundred meters into a dirt road. I did an important break at the Alyakes spring to take enough (very good!!) water and then I continued as far as a small plain under another fork of this road to overnight for the first time in “mountains” (alt. about 960m) here. Rather a nice site, and nice and calm night even in my (only) summer sleeping bag with a liner (improving its heat comfort for about 6 degrees, as they say).

3^rd day – 06/10 – This day was important because I should find a footpath between the end of this road (beside the mitato of Kakoperato) and rather a large plain of Plakoseli on the E4 route not so far from a range/massif with the highest peak of Melindanou (2132m). After waking and getting up I had breakfast and as soon as I packed all the things (mainly a sleeping bag + tent), I set off.  Taking a short-cut across a long loop of the road, I continued along the road running beside next spring – Mono Skarfidi (poorer water in a trough). The way along this dirt road is nice and not difficult although it is always ascending. Sometimes nice and afar views open both northward and also southward, of approaching mountains. Finally (about 12km from Therisso), I was at the end of the road (a concrete cistern for rain/snow water dug into a slope, and a rather modern rectangular stone house with the concrete roof just beside – the entire area is called Kakoperato).

Note: Before I started my holiday, I had found this path on Google Earth (visible like a path of animals) and recorded coordinates of some important points in my GPS. As usually, if one is certainly (according to coordinates) standing just on a path (which is rather well visible on Google Earth), in reality, often any visible patterns of this path could be seen under feet. So happened in this case but yet a different colour of ground (brown) pointed partly on this path.

I set out above the cistern (at first, my on way contoured a steep slope of a gorge running under flanks of Kaloros - 1926m), from time to time checking the right direction using GPS records, and finally, even some sparse stone-men appeared. The way was not very difficult, of course, indeed with stones under feet but mostly in rather an easy gradient. However, even though there were parts of steeper ascending, just shortly after midday I reached the top of the main range (at alt. about 1930m). To the south, one can see an amazing panorama of the heart of Levka Ori with its main object – the massif with the highest point of Levka Ori – Páchnes (2453m), whereas northward even pale houses of Chania spreading on the northern shore and also the Akrotiri peninsula was into sight. I descended on the plain, found a proper place for my tent, prepared dinner and because days in Oct are shorter already, the sun went down and dark started getting soon which was linked with getting cool. Therefore, I hit the sack and enjoyed in warmth of my sleeping bag during the first really mountain night (alt. about 1860m).

4^st day – 07/10 – To tell the truth, at evening I had been in fear from lower temperatures at this higher altitude and prepared some more clothing if necessary to put on more but it wasn’t necessary. However, the morning was fresh meanwhile but as soon as the sun rays reached the plain, the air was much warmer soon. Walking along the E4 route is nice and not very difficult. During about 15 mins I reached the lowest point of this section – a saddle between the smaller plain called Pirou, and the lower flat place called Petradhé. From this point the way starts to ascend. The Klissidia mitato standing beside the path, once in ruins, was rebuilt. The footpath as far as the Katsiveli plain is along a well-tramped mule-track winding among crests descending from both sides of the valley. It was sunny and warm enough and I decided it would be an easy day for me. So, I did longer break at Katsiveli, with taking water and got washed there, and after refreshing, I set out a little bit back at first to turn left and up then, under flanks of the bicolour peak of Modaki (2224m). I had in my mind (from my previous treks here) there should be a flat site roughly westward the peak where I was going to pitch my tent for the on-coming night. The small plain (alt. of about 1960m) is hidden against wind by huge slopes of Modaki and next hills and peaks from three its sides and around its west side there are rocks about 5m high, so I thought, the night would be calm even though wind gusts were sometimes stronger.

5^st day – 08/10 – How wrong I was!! The wind got up and thus, its gusts became increasingly stronger. I couldn't sleep in such noise (wind + tent) and also had to support the tent's construction from inside against the wind from time to time. At some time in the deep night, I had to get up and re-pitch the tent for 90° with its sharper edge into the wind. It helped partly nevertheless, I almost didn’t fall asleep. However, the morning was nice again, sunny and the wind got calm down a little bit, and therefore, there was nothing to delay my departure. And I did it rather soon because there was waiting for me a challenging ascent to the summit of Páchnes and continuation down for a spot where next night could be spent. Formerly, I also had intended to climb another peak over 2300m – Bournelos (2362m), but as soon as I got on the ridgetop of a first crest above the plain (where I spent last night) I resigned it – the strong wind at that altitude and - according to the sight - rather long way to the summit and back could cause I wouldn’t reach the proper place for overnight. So, after a short break, I started ascending. At first, there were some cairns (some of them I built myself one year ago when hiking conversely) but I lost them early and had to choose my own way. I don’t understand why I did it but I chose the wrong way!! I didn’t learn the summit of Páchnes (despite I was on the summit so many times!!) and came on the flat range/saddle southwards under Páchnes!! However, at that place, I (finally!!!) saw my mistake and climb the right summit. Due to very strong wind whose gusts could tumble a person with a big rucksack (like me) on the shoulder, I didn’t stay here for a longer time and descended along the well-tramped footpath on the Rousiés saddle (about 40mins) where I took a long pause for a lunch and taking a supply of (very good) water. Hidden beyond the cistern, I almost could take a sunbath!! It was here rather nice – warm and sunny. Next part of the way – to the end of the Anopoli-road – took me about 25 mins and on the road, I could say myself, the mountain part of my holiday is, I’m afraid, over... :-( There was in front of me only the dirt road (except a section through a valley before the place called Aganthopoi – not the valley of Ammoutsera – through which I went along the old mule-track). At Aganthopoi I left the road and during about 30 min came (along the mule-track again) at the site where there are some fences and also the Kriaras cistern. High above the cistern, just beside ruins of an old stone house, I camped at the very nice site under 4 cypress trees at an altitude of about 1350 m.

6^th day - 09/10 – This day I didn't have to hurry up because I should come to civilization. The descent through the gorge Lagou is not very complicated, except the fact, there are many trees or big branches across the footpath as a result of late snowing some years ago - snow in March is wet and heavy and trees in Crete aren't adapted enough to such conditions. Due to such blocks, one had to look for detours rather often. And the second not very nice thing was the fact all under pine trees was covered by resin dripping from their trunks and mainly from branches. It is a result of an attack by a species of a plant-louse which brought honey-makers for improving the productivity of bees. The view on such trees which are dying is very very sad. When I got in civilization, thus in a tavern (Anopoli), my first care was to eat an excellent local Greek salad and drink beer. And in addition to it, I had a big pork chop with fried potato. Very nice time... Nevertheless, I must say, these so nice moments in the tavern Anopoli were much better than following ones when I ascended by the tarmac road up to the chapel of Agia Ekaterini. I must say to overate in the tavern and to walk upward with a thick stomach is not very progressive. However, when I got to the chapel, excellent views from its terrace were my reward. Eastward one can see not only Chóra Sfakia but father also a peninsula with a fort of Frangokastello whereas just below there were white buildings of a tourist destination of Loutro spreading around a bay. In front of the entrance to the chapel, there is next building with a doorway and windows openings equipped inside with some long metal tables and benches of the same material, and in its far corner, there is a cover of an under-floor water reservoir. This building is rectangular, with the flat roof which can be used as a lookout of Anopoli plain. Formerly, I intended to hike from the chapel on the top of the range westward to reach the road toward the village of Lívadiana, but from above I could see it would be very difficult, maybe even impassable, due to many fences. Therefore, I returned to the road and walked along it to get to the Lívadiana road using an old mule-track across the flat area (starting in the hamlet of Giros). When I reached the road I could see what was waiting for me – many boring kilometres on the road winding down slopes. But fortunately, a German's couple in a car gave me a lift (they were heading for as far as Likos), therefore, I got to the mouth of the Aradhéna gorge (the site Marmara) soon enough for a short beer-pause before leaving into the gorge to get on a good spot for camping (which I knew from my previous visits about). It is not very far from the sea however, the sea wasn't heard and I spent there the nice and calm night.

7^th day – 10/10 – The last day of my main track was coming but it was only easy and for me very familiar part along the coastal E4 route from Marmara toward Agia Roumeli. The most difficult section is the ascent from Marmara to the highest point of between this place and Agia Roumeli but it took me just about 25 minutes and then it was joyful walking from this spot. As usual, I did the main pause under dunes in the mouth of the Eligias gorge, swimming and sunbathing (and getting washed!!) was very useful. In an informal campsite in Agia Roumeli, my favourite place wasn't occupied, so I pitch my tent here and could go to say hello in the Tarra tavern to my friends Andreas and Sifys, brothers who are owners of this facility. However, just before I had set off to my holiday we had discussed with Loraine Wilson (the author of the book guide to Levka Ori) if there would be a possibility to meet ourselves in Agia Roumeli (she should be here at that time), and we really met!! Loraine just roamed around the camp when I came here, and she came round also next day for talking about news.

8, 9 and 10^th days – 11-13/10 – My stay here was in common rails, a big washing day (clothes), eating in the Tarra, shopping fruits, beer and also cheese... Just one thing which stood out was my trip toward Papouras (983m), the last southern summit of whole huge range with known peaks of Gigilos (2080m) and Volakias (2115m). I was as well curious to see such a very particular plant – Biarum davisii which I had met here about two years ago. I found these plants but they were off their blossom already.

11^th day – 14/10 – This was my last day in Agia Roumeli that year. After lunch in the Tarra, I packed my tent and all my things to set out likely back at first, along the E4 route eastward. And again, as usual, I took the break under the mouth of the Eligias gorge with swimming and sunbathing. After about two hours I started hiking up the gorge to find a good campsite for my tent before it got dark. I found it rather high, at about an altitude of about 500m (as I guess), and enjoyed the calmest and the most silent night of the whole trip. Because I intended (and repeated) hiking from Fliskounias toward the cave of Kormokopou, the higher I slept the more time I would have next day for this track.

12^th day – 15/10 – Because I slept so high I didn't have to rush, but despite to it I was at Fliskounias rather soon, a long time before noon. I was curious to see if some deluges or heavy snowdrifts changed the way, especially the parts where the path oversteps steep gullies. Fortunately, it didn't happen. The way up is clear and not very difficult even though there are some challenging parts where the footpath follows narrow ledge across almost vertical rocks... On a spur with sharp rocks and with an excellent view of the lower part of the gorge and also a part of Agia Roumeli bay, I got during about one hour. However, next part toward the cave despite it is mostly descending or contoured way took me almost the same time because it is not very clear. In the cave, I took water, ate a lunch and went on along the well-tramped and marked (by EOS) pathway (blue-white marks on trees and stones/rocks). In a certain distance from the cave, there is a branch marked red and yellow to Papakefála (1015m) what should be a lookout and also a picnic site (I didn’t walk there). The way down also comes to an open place with remains of old walls and with an underground cistern in which, surprisingly, there was the level of water only a short piece under its cover. It isn't the cistern for water from rains or snow thus there must be some underground water. The way to the village of Agios Ioannis took me about one hour (from the cave). In the village, I did a detour to a church for water and continued as far as Sellouda which is one of my most favourite campsites.

13^th day – 16/10 – In the morning, there was a haze above the sea and also air above the plain wasn’t glass clear – maybe a presage of deterioration of weather? After breakfast, I packed my camp and loitered along the footpath between low stone walls to a dirt road to get by it on the main road running to Anopoli. It was Sunday so why to hurry up? The snack bar beside the bridge over the Aradhéna gorge was full of local people, including their children, so that I had to drink my beer sitting on a low wall just above the gorge. After this short break I went on along the road (with exception of a short-cut over a low hill to the village of Agios Dimitrios) as far as the Anopoli tavern to have their excellent and unique Greek salad once more. The trek to the Ilingias gorge from this place starts going along the main tarmac road to get to the hamlet of Kámbia above which there are some masts on the hilltop. I always have used going along the main road as far as the bottom of the hill, then up to the masts and down where remains of an old mule-track are. But now, I tried to find a shorter way which I could see on satellite maps of Google Earth. To do it, I turned to the left as though to a pension Madáres just behind sharp “S” turning of the road and after about 20 meters to turn to the right on a track which is running left under the masts. Really much shorter way in comparison with my routine one!! I got into the Ilingias gorge very soon so I had enough time for improving my camp-site here (under about 10 cypress trees) which I had built years ago. I expected a calm and nice night, the last one on the southern shore.

14^th day – 17/10 – I didn’t need to get up early and then to hurry up as my bus from Sfakia should leave at 11 o’clock a.m. Therefore all my activity was like I’m very lazy however, I set off in time enough to can do last swimming/washing on a beach and just before eleven I was ready at the bus stop. It was important to be here in advance because the bus used to be overfilled by travellers going to the gorge of Imbros. I should say yet several drops of rain tapped on my tent in the night but the tent was dry in the morning. But when the bus got on hills dark clouds could be seen hanging on tops of mountains. Worse weather went with us as far as the (northern) shore to Chania but, fortunately, without any rain. As usual, I left my luggage in a luggage room at the bus station to do some shopping and eating, and in the later afternoon, I picked it up and left for the beach Nea Chóra for overnight really for the last Cretan night of this year here.

15^th day – 18/10 – The night wasn’t very friendly, a permanent and rather strong wind hit my tent although it was standing/hidden under such a sandbank. And again – the short rain in the night. I had to hurry up this time to catch my bus at 7 o’clock a.m. but a short shower hunt me dawn again in the morning. However, I got to the bus station in time (also for buying some food) and went away to the airport. The new building of the airport was in use already but with a poor facility for the time being inside. And again like when I came – all departures (from Chania and from Athens) and arrivals (to Athens and to Prague) was according to the timetable with an exception of the Prague’s arrival which was for several tens minutes sooner – probably very good and fast wind was blowing. A friend of mine, Aleš, was waiting for me at the airport because he had some necessities in the town and we could come round then to a restaurant to have lunch. Necessary to say, he warned me against low temperatures in Prague (especially in comparison with these in Crete), and therefore I was wrapped up enough, maybe even to a fault.

I must also say, as soon as I got home, immediately from next days I watched the website of Aegean Airlines, and during several days only there was an order of cheaper flights for next year and thus, I bought the one already, for the end of April to the beginning of May. So, I can look forward to it and start thinking about an itinerary again.